when i was about thirteen we drove a conversion van with me my three sisters my parents and my grandparents! all the way from tallahassee to orange county california just because my mom was crazy and cool like that. so my waay older supercool stoner artist cousin gives me this surfboard somebody gave him when he was working for the movers.

it was beat to shit because they'd had a prty in a pool with it. but i didn't care. it was a genuine surfboard from the real california and it was mine. so we strapped it on the roof and took the long way home. and you bet we got some funny looks. and it stayed unsurfed in florida for quite some time. and they say you can't never go home. but you gotta go back and get your stuff at some point. and at some point i drove it back across. i drove it back in my sister's vw camper with an old hansen (i'll post a pic sometime) and my sister's dog. that was a good trip. i learned alot about myself and stuff.

and now i'm just a few days from forty-one. out here in oregon. been here since college. wife. kids. mortgage. a dog. and i still have this old beat up single fin. and to be honest, i don't remember ever taking it to the beach.