every october before halloween there's a huge swell. it never fails. it's always mid october. it's markedly larger than the last few months and it marks the oncoming of winter, when it gets too big to surf for weeks at a time.
similarly, toward thanksgiving, right around second elk hunting season, the waves get very good for a day or so. then it goes back to big and messy. you can almost count on it.
and it's bitter sweet to come out of the woods after a long couple of days looking for the elusive pacific northwest wilderbeast... cold. hungry. physically exhausted...and you pop out on the beach to see this...
even if you had a board and wetsuit...there's just no energy left. but it's so wonderful to look at.
i love this place. oregon.
tonight after work
no one out. but looked good enough to face the demons (white sharks are out there).
i believe it was derrick doerner when talking about big waves (not like my evening waves), in an old surfer article, he said,
"in order to get over a fear we must put ourselves in the situation again and again and survive."
that has always stuck with me. but it's hard. but rewarding for sure every time.
deal of the century
6'5" 7' and 7'6" . 3/4 of the loot.happy=b.f.f. makes you a good deal on his stuff.
deal of the century= 4 surfboards in good condition+3dakine daybags (and one old leash)
total cost= $250.oo
thanks bro. i'm gonna miss surfing with you.
but i am stoked on the most excellent deal.
taxed by the landlord
South Beach State Park, OR — On October 20, 2011 Fox News in Newport, Oregon reported the following; “A great white shark bit a huge chunk out of a surfboard while its rider was catching a wave off the coast of South Beach State Park in Newport, Oregon. ‘All the sudden I saw a two-foot fin coming out of the water and it lifted up my friend in the air,' said Ron Clifford, who was in the water near the surfer who was attacked . ‘I was scared for my life. I've never seen anything like that. It was like witnessing an almost murder.' The surfer, Bobby Gumm, made it to shore unharmed, but his friends said he was shaken up by what had happened. The shark bit 23 inches off his board. He and his friends were thankful they all made it to shore.” This is the second authenticated unprovoked shark attack from Oregon in 10 days and the 5th for the Pacific Coast of North America this year. Please report any shark sighting, encounter, or attack to the Shark Research Committee.
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