the clarity of the water and the eight foot faces made the wave look tiny, but the shape and speed made it so irresistable, we had to try. but alas, the terrain was too treacherous and the wind also made landing the helicopter next to impossible. this left-hand sand-bottomed  point  remained unsurfed. we vowed to try again on another day.

first fall swell.  lonely. made me realize i don't have enough friends. and that i'm just too scared of what i know is out there. it's not fun when you're scared the whole time. that's stupid i know. but i've had a couple of reasons to be scared now. it sucks. i hate it.