every october before halloween there's a huge swell. it never fails. it's always mid october. it's markedly larger than the last few months and it marks the oncoming of winter, when it gets too big to surf for weeks at a time.
similarly, toward thanksgiving, right around second elk hunting season, the waves get very good for a day or so. then it goes back to big and messy. you can almost count on it.
and it's bitter sweet to come out of the woods after a long couple of days looking for the elusive pacific northwest wilderbeast... cold. hungry. physically exhausted...and you pop out on the beach to see this...
even if you had a board and wetsuit...there's just no energy left. but it's so wonderful to look at.
i love this place. oregon.
tonight after work
no one out. but looked good enough to face the demons (white sharks are out there).
i believe it was derrick doerner when talking about big waves (not like my evening waves), in an old surfer article, he said,
"in order to get over a fear we must put ourselves in the situation again and again and survive."
that has always stuck with me. but it's hard. but rewarding for sure every time.
deal of the century
6'5" 7' and 7'6" . 3/4 of the loot.happy=b.f.f. makes you a good deal on his stuff.
deal of the century= 4 surfboards in good condition+3dakine daybags (and one old leash)
total cost= $250.oo
thanks bro. i'm gonna miss surfing with you.
but i am stoked on the most excellent deal.
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